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THE MOGAO CAVES
By the fourth century, there was a growing Buddhist community at Dunhuang. Some twenty-five kilometres to the south-east of the town, at the edge of the Mingsha Shan or Dunes of the Singing Sands - named for the melodious sounds produced by the wind that blows through them - lies a river-bed. Bordering this is a long cliff, Mogaoku, which was even then probably regarded as a sacred place. It was here that a Buddhist monk, Yuezun, first set about carving a remote and almost inaccessible cave for solitary meditation high up the cliff face. Though
It was not just merchandise, technology and culture that passed along the Silk Road. From the early centuries AD, learned monks from the monastic centres of Central Asia imparted their knowledge and interpretations of the scriptures to their Chinese counterparts by way of these trade routes. Representatives of Zoroastrianism, the ancient Persian dualist religion, and of Nestorianism, an Eastern Christian sect, also reached China and established themselves there.

this first cave, which was probably quite small, has not survived, hundreds of similar caves were cut and maintained, without serious interruption, for the next thousand years. Some 492 decorated caves, large and small, are extant today.
The caves that survive hardly conform to the western idea of monastic cells: they were all painstakingly adorned - every inch of wall and ceiling - with lavish ornament, narrative illustrations and countless images of Buddha and heavenly beings. The site, popularly known as the Caves of the Thousand Buddhas, became a major centre for Buddhist pilgrims. Not only the local Buddhist monks and lay believers, but also rulers and administrators from near and far, sought to dedicate shrines to celebrate the Buddhist faith and to bear witness to their own status in society and the honours they had received from the Chinese empire.
Political changes of dynasty, and even the religious persecutions which devastated Buddhist institutions within China, never seemed to hamper the pace at which new caves were opened and decorated. Dunhuang, in the far west, was simply too remote for even the great persecution of Buddhism in the Huichang era (842-845) to be effective, the area having then been under Tibetan, rather than Chinese, control for some sixty years. The prayers of travellers and merchants for a safe passage through the hazards of the desert crossing - or to render thanks for the same - and the devout wishes of Chinese residents anxious to secure their own return to the heartland of China were sufficient reasons for new dedications. In every case, these dedications reflected changes in the nature of Buddhist teachings and beliefs, whether these changes had been introduced from India and Central Asia or were Chinese developments.
Personal devotion is attested in the great number of images of popular Bodhisattvas such as Avalokitesvara (Guanyin), who offered salvation from every kind of danger and misfortune simply through the recitation of his name. Such dangers could be vividly portrayed in paintings, and provided the opportunity for the artists to depict everyday activities and people of every kind, from Chinese officials to Sogdian merchants, from highway bandits to the official guards at city gates.
After
the emergence of powerful local clans in the tenth century, when some of the largest
caves were dedicated, the eleventh and twelfth centuries witnessed a scaling-down
of activity at the site. The last few caves are the work of the fourteenth century,
during the Yuan dynasty. No new caves were cut during the Ming (1368-1644) and
Qing (1644-1911) dynasties, although sundry restorations were undertaken during
the latter period, and visitors' inscriptions show that the site remained in use.
The first western visitors, in 1878, were the Hungarian Count Széchenyi
Béla and his two companions, Lajos Lóczy and Gustav Kreitner, both
of whom wrote a short accounts of the caves.